Corbin Sparrow #149 has
been sold.
The following page was used to sell it.
Front
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From low
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Left
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Back
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Parks like Motorcycle
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Back view
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Cockpit
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Dash
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Seat
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Rear Tire
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Trunk with usual stuff
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Breakout box in corner
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Antenna ground plane wires
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Custom trunk lock- works
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Radio with animations
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Radio faceplate
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Yellowtops and regs
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Breakout box uncovered
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You get all this too!
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Timer included
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I'm selling my Corbin Sparrow, a fun fun fun three wheeled electric
vehicle. Only 300 of them were ever manufactured by Corbin Motors
(now bankrupt and out of business unfortunately). This is one of
the best ones.
It is serial number 149, from the 2000 model year. This means
that approximately 149 of them were manufactured before it, so when this
was manufactured a number of improvements had already been made by Corbin
like moving to wider tires, going to the hatchback design, and using Kilovac
controllers. And this Sparrow had been back to the factory to have
some other improvements made as detailed below.
- Approximately 4500 miles on the odometer as of 10/03. I'm
the original owner.
- Brand new set of Optima Yellow Top batteries was installed
at 3992 miles, and treated gently. The longer you drive before recharging
the earlier the batteries will fail, and I've been very gentle on these batteries,
mostly driving only 6-7 miles to or from work between charges. About
5 times I've driven 10-18 miles, and once I drove 34.9 miles under very
carefully controlled conditions, checking battery condition along the way,
to test the range of these batteries. In actual practice you would
want to only drive 25-30 miles or less for best battery life; no Sparrow
should be driven further than that without a charge because the lower you
go on the batteries the more damage you can do. These batteries are
at the prime of their life, broken in but practically new. The 13 Optima
batteries in the Sparrow cost $110 sale to $149.99 list each, and installation
of a full pack can take a whole day, so the value of a new full pack is between
$1400 and $2000 not including labor.
- "Ed Regs" installed. These are little electronic
regulator modules designed by Ed Ang, an engineer and Sparrow owner. One
is installed on each of the 13 batteries to protect it from overcharging.
Having these installed is considered essential for long battery life,
and unfortunately most used Sparrows don't have them. Ask any knowledgeable
Sparrow owner or electric vehicle owner and they will tell you that regulators
are necessary with sealed AGM batteries like those in the Sparrow. I'm
including two extra "Ed Regs" as spares. Ed sells these regs for $30
each, so the set is worth $450.
- 120V Zivan charger installed, so you can plug into
regular AC outlets.
- Kilovac controller, the latest one. Corbin actually
produced Sparrows with three different types of controllers: DCP, Curtis,
and Kilovac. The Kilovacs are the latest ones. The DCP controllers
were recalled by Corbin because some stuck on, although there are some who
believe that DCP controllers can be safe.
- Rear sprocket replaced (which connects the belt
to the wheel) because the old one was beginning to "mushroom" or deform near
the center hole. The new one from Corbin is very solid and shows no
signs of any problems. Make sure you take a look at the rear sprocket
of any Sparrow you might buy to make sure there are no cracks or deformations;
many left the factory that way.
- DC/DC replaced with a new one from Corbin. Corbin
had accidentally shipped my Sparrow with the wrong voltage DC/DC, and it
was causing instabilities in the electrical system. Now that we have
the right voltage, everything works great.
- Low squeal brakes were installed by Corbin after the
sale. The original brakes in a Sparrow squeal really loudly in use.
Corbin found a softer brake pad which doesn't squeal as much, and
my Sparrow has those quieter brake pads installed. Honestly they still
squeal every once in a while but it's rare now. The braking power
is plenty strong.
- Brake line insulation fix. The flexible brake
line which runs through the front of the Sparrow battery compartment has
a metallic jacket over it, and there is at least one maybe two or more cases
where in other Sparrows that metal jacket has contacted a battery post
causing arcing and a fire in the Sparrow. One of the last things Corbin
did before going out of business was to recommend that people afix the
brake line to the tub wall so it couldn't contact the battery. I went
further, and completely covered that metal-sheathed brake line in a plastic
sheath so that it is impossible for it to make contact with any of the batteries.
- Spacers installed by myself to raise the seat slightly
and allow the batteries under there more ventilation.
- GFCI fix. Some sparrows cannot be used with outlets
that have Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters due to the way they are wired
internally with some leakage current through the ground. They pop
the GFCI. This Sparrow is rewired so the ground doesn't have a leakage
current, so it can be used with GFCI outlets.
- Color Yellow. Some of the pictures above
make it look a bit bluish or greenish but I think that is just from my digital
camera getting confused in its attempt to make the color balance white. The
"Left" picture above is closest to its true color.
- New Pioneer CD Radio head unit, model DEH-P6400, cost
nearly $300 plus labor. I installed this head unit because the no so
high quality factory radio didn't get good radio reception, and I'm kind
of an audio nut. It is XM satellite radio compatible if you install
the outboard box and antenna for that. It has 50Wx4 power, built in
parametric equalizer, built in sub crossover, Super Tuner III, and a really
cool looking dot matrix display that shows animations. I'm not really
into watching animations on my radio but it is very impressive looking and
kids love it when you show off your Sparrow.
- RCA brand front speakers mounted below the dash with
Monster brand mounts. Getting good quality in the Sparrow
is a challenge, and I tried all kinds of speaker arrangements including seperate
tweeter/woofer combos in lots of different places. These RCAs turned
out to produce the best imaging, most natural sound. In order to avoid
damaging the dash in any way, I found mounts designed for mounting
surround speakers on the wall, and mounted these speakers to the heavy firewall.
This required a very beefy mount because of the geometry since the
speakers had to be held out by the mount rather than hanging below it.
The only mount up to these standards was a $100 Monster brand mount.
- Volkswagen type antenna installed. The factory
radio didn't really have an antenna, so you couldn't get decent radio reception.
The antenna I installed in the trunk of this Sparrow looks cool and
provides decent reception. One issue that has prevented others from
installing antennas in the Sparrow is that the body is fiberglass which doesn't
provide the ground plane that a metal body does. I solved this problem
by running white ground plane wires in the inside of the trunk at close to
the ideal 45 degree angle.
- Infinity Kappa 692.3i 6x9 speakers in boxes in the
rear. These speakers provide the low bass sounds and fill out the
audio, and provide a very powerful sound. This is a very high quality
speaker. The factory speakers in the back of the seat are disconnected
because they were poor quality. Cost was around $200 for the pair.
- Breakout box. The connections to each battery
are available in the breakout box that I installed. This is a custom
built box that allows the batteries to be checked and individually accessed
without the danger of sticking probes or clips in the battery compartments
where they could contact metal frame parts and cause a dangerous short circuit.
This breakout box is safe because all the wires have ATO type fuses
near the batteries themselves. There are fourteen female probe sockets
which accept voltmeter type test probes. I will also include a 12V
battery charger that I've modified with probe ends to plug into the box.
That charger might be useful when the batteries get old for "topping
up" low batteries. I am also including two Y adapters that let both
the charger and a voltmeter plug onto the same battery simultaneously from
the breakout box. Keeping track of individual battery voltages is important
for maximizing your battery life and making sure you aren't depleting the
batteries too much with your trip length. The breakout box makes this
easy. It is on a "stalk" of wires such that it can rest in the trunk
when not in use, but can be easily accessed from the cabin compartment too.
The parts for this breakout box and wire harness totalled around $150,
and there was a lot of labor in installing it.
- Nearly perfect condition overall. I've maintained
the paint by waxing it regularly and this Sparrow has always been parked
in either my well shaded carport or in a parking garage at work. I've
seen other Sparrows that had significant rain/sun weathering even in a few
years, and this one really looks like new. I've used Armor All regularly
on the tires and interior vinyl so they are in great condition.
- TMRW CAR license plate ("Tomorrow Car"). This
is a California customized plate, and if you buy the Sparrow and want that
plate, I'll transfer it to you.
- California EV parking sticker next to the license plate.
This sticker from the DMV allows you to park in EV only spaces. This
sticker is probably a collectors item in that it is serial number 8.
- Trunk lock replaced with one that actually works. This
was a custom project that I did because the factory trunk lock was completely
ineffective; even with the trunk in the locked position you could still
open the trunk by using just a little more force than necessary. I
replaced the trunk lock with one that locks solidly; it required some custom
metal bending to make the catch. It has been reliable for years of
use.
- Digital clock added on dash. I got a digital
clock and attached it to the dash with "yellow tack" so that there will
be no damage if it is removed.
- Battery temperature probe. I have installed a
battery temperature probe with a display that can be read from the cabin.
This provides one more piece of information to evaluate the health
of your batteries.
- "V9" charger chip. This is a later revision of the
Zivan charger software chip. Most Sparrows came from the factory with
the V8 chip, which was harder on the batteries. I installed the V9 chip
in my Sparrow. The V9 chip is the most recent software release, developed
in association with Zivan, Optima, and Corbin. The two main improvements
are that it is better at preventing "thermal runaways" where the batteries
overheat during charging, and it implements a float charge after charging
to keep the batteries in their optimal state until the next use.
- E-meter with proper settings. The E-meter is
the set such that when it reads 0 percent, that is the furthest you should
drive the vehicle. Some Sparrows have their E-meter set so that it
reads 20 percent at the point where the batteries are discharged to the
manufacturer-recommended limit (80%DOD). Some users of those Sparrows
have driven past that point thinking they could to go zero, and caused great
harm to the batteries because of it.
I am including some other gear with this Sparrow as well:
- Two brand new belts. These are exact replacement
Gates brand belts, valued at $100 or more each. Unfortunately the
belt on the sparrow does seem to break every few thousand miles, and having
a replacement makes life much better.
- Battery Charger. This is a standard 12V automotive
unregulated 2A/6A charger, with custom plugs for the breakout box. This
can be useful to "prop up" old batteries to extend their life. You
shouldn't need it for a long time with these batteries though.
- Custom Y adapters to allow two things to plug into
the same battery on the breakout box.
- Extra fuses for emergencies. The breakout box
wires use the same kind of fuse as the Sparrow fuse box for easy compatibility.
- Extra dome light bulb.
- Outlet tester with neon lights. This is useful
for testing public outlets to see if they are live.
- Rain-X interior and exterior. The Sparrow wiper
isn't designed to reach the whole windshield, so using Rain-X helps visibility.
Rain-x antifog helps keep the interior window from fogging up.
- Rubber gloves. These are useful for working on
the batteries to protect you from shock. If you do work on the batteries
you should press the big red button and disconnect the big anderson connector
in the controller compartment on the side first to "defang" the sparrow
so that contact between the frame and a battery terminal won't be dangerous.
- Fire extinguisher. Several other Sparrows have
had electrical fires, so you want to be prepared.
- Radio faceplate case
- 2 custom built Adapters for different styles of outlets.
These let you plug into 120V outlets with different connectors than
the normal ones.
- Corbin charging cord. This plugs into a regular
120V outlet (you should have nothing else plugged in on the circuit or your
breaker might blow). The other end plugs in the "gas cap" socket on
the side of the Sparrow. It's about 8-10 feet long.
- Extra long charging cord (not shown in pictures because
it was at work). This is an extra long charging cord with the special
gas cap connector on one end and standard 120V plug on the other, just like
the standard charging cord. It is made of a high quality "Carol Roughhide"
green color cable for exta durability. It is approximately 25 feet
long to let you reach outlets further away.
- Outdoor weatherized timer. This is helpful for
starting the sparrow charging late at night to get the cheap electricity
rates. Also if you have driven a lot, it's a good idea to let the
batteries cool down before charging.
- VIN number 1C9TS1200YH737149 in case you want to pull a
carfax or other report to verify that the record is clean on this car.
My experiences driving a Sparrow
I have absolutely loved being a Sparrow owner. This thing is
just so much fun to drive, knowing you are helping the environment and
simultaneously driving a very unique and cool car. People wave and
give thumbs up wherever you go. You overhear people on the street
saying "Look at that" in excited tones. This car is and has always
been about fun. But recently I had a near accident while driving
it. I was accelerating from a stop, making a left turn, when the
rear wheel lost traction due to a slick on the road, and the rear wheel
slid out, and tended to tip. The left wheel was off the ground a
foot or so, and I felt like it might tip over. As it slowed down the
left wheel came down on the ground and all was fine. No scratches,
no damage, no harm. This process of having the rear wheel lose traction
and slide out, then tip, is a pattern that has led to accidents with other
Sparrows in the past. I believe this kind of incident is avoidable
by using a very light touch on the accelerator when going around turns and
when driving in slippery conditions. Yet I'm a bit concerned for my
safety knowing that only 300 of these were built and that they probably
didn't do much crash testing, and part of why I'm selling is because I am
realizing how much I value the stability and safety of a car. That
and the new 2004 Prius hybrid is coming out and I need to sell the Sparrow
to afford that. Certainly my Sparrow is just as safe as the other Sparrows
on the road if not safer, but in general you should know that Sparrows
need to be driven more conservatively than cars. By maintaining my
Sparrow in top condition, I think you can have confidence that you are buying
a safe Sparrow.
Results of battery testing.
I wanted to see what the range of these new batteries was. Normally
I would not suggest that anyone push the range of their batteries unless
they really know what they are doing, because taking them too low can be
dangerous to the batteries. But I was monitoring voltages carefully
throughout to make sure I didn't damage them.
I drove mosly on a flat frontage road about .8 miles long, driving out
and back, stopping and turning around at both ends. Speed limit was
35 and I drove about 30-35 mph. The first few miles and last few miles
had stop signs and traffic lights every couple of blocks. Ambient
temperature was about 85 degrees.
The test started after a full charge. 172 Volts on the pack, E-meter
reading 100% and 0 Ah. Odometer 4446.3 mi.
After driving a half mile the individual voltages were:
- 13.16
- 13.19
- 13.18
- 13.19
- 13.18
- 13.16
- 13.13
- 13.12
- 13.15
- 13.17
- 13.15
- 13.15
- 13.07
After having driven 34.9 miles, the E-meter read 0%, 34.4 Ah, and 155.5V
at rest. Odometer 4481.2 mi. During the drive the voltage never
got below 140V total, and I was using less than 50A current. The individual
battery voltages were:
- 12.10
- 12.10
- 12.06
- 12.10
- 12.04
- 11.99
- 12.05
- 12.07
- 12.02
- 12.01
- 12.09
- 12.08
- 11.93
These voltages indicate that the pack is very well balanced. Note
that battery 13 is lower because that battery was brand new installed a
few hundred miles after the other ones, and probably hasn't gotten as broken
in as the others yet.
Drivability:
I have relied upon this Sparrow to get to work for years and it has yet
to let me down. The only times it has been undrivable have been when
the belt broke twice (luckily on my way home).
Problems:
I believe in honest disclosure, so I will tell you the issues that you
might notice on this particular vehicle if you were to carefully inspect
and test drive the car in person.
- There is a slight dark scuff mark on the left front bumper where
I accidentally tapped some concrete while parking it once. You probably
wouldn't notice it in person, and you can't even make it out in the pictures
above which is why I mention it. It's just on the surface, not a dent.
Other than that, the body is exactly like it came from the factory.
You could easily tell someone this was a brand new car and they would
believe you.
- There is a scratch on the steering wheel below the middle on the
metal. Again, not a big thing. That was actually there when
the car was delivered to me.
- The light on the analog amp meter doesn't work, so you can't read
amps at night. There is an easy workaround for this; just put the
e-meter into amp mode and you can read amps digitally at night.
- The brakes do sometimes sqeal. It mostly happens when the
car hasn't been driven in a few days and it probably is related to dust
on the rotor. After pressing the brakes a few times they're quiet.
- The windows make a loud squealing noise when you roll them down.
Applying rain-x to the windows temporarily reduces this problem, which
is caused by the rubber wipers inside the window frame. Many Sparrows
have this issue.
- The belt sometimes squeaks when driving it. Again, this is
a general problem that many Sparrows have. It absolutely does not indicate
any mechanical problem; it's just due to the way the Sparrows were designed
without a belt tension adjustment. The amount of belt squeak in this
Sparrow is much less than others I have heard.
Service:
There is an EV tech who focusses on servicing Corbin Sparrows. Her
name is Clare Bell, and she worked for Corbin and designed parts of the
Sparrow so she knows her stuff. She is also a dedicated electric vehicle
enthusiast. She is based out of Northern California but frequently
travels. If you ask me I'll give you contact info to get in touch with
her (I don't want to post it on the web).
Community:
There is a yahoo group mailing list where Sparrow owners share their wisdom
for enjoying and maintaining their Sparrows. There are a lot of very
knowledgeable folks who are very willing to help. Some of them meet
in the Bay Area at lunch meetings, and of course you can meet other Sparrow
owners at electric vehicle events like the annual EV rally in Palo Alto.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/sparrow_ev
Pricing:
I'm asking $11,300 for this Sparrow, and I feel that is a very reasonable
price considering the better than new condition, and many upgrades. Just
the parts for the new batteries, regulators, stereo system, and other upgrades
would be significantly over $3000 if you were to do it yourself. If
you were to add in the labor to get a "from the factory" sparrow as reliable
as this one that would add thousands more. If you want a reliable
sparrow you will want to do most of these upgrades anyway, so buying this
sparrow saves you not only the hassle of getting them done but also some
money.
I have maintained it as if I would keep it forever. I have a degree
in electrical engineering and working on the Sparrow has been a fun way
to put that knowledge to use since I work in computer software as my day
job. I believe in honesty so I've disclosed issues here that others
might not have disclosed.
Contact:
The Sparrow is based in San Carlos, California, about 40 minutes south
of San Francisco. I will be happy to coordinate with buyer-paid shippers,
but I would guess that with all the cool people here in the Bay Area I'll
find someone local to buy it. I'm happy to offer test drives.
You can contact me, Tom Morrow... #### Sparrow is sold, do not contact
#####